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Water
Test |
A water test is the easiest way to
ensure that the wood can absorb sealer
or finish. Sprinkle water on the deck.
If it soaks in immediately, the deck can
be sealed. If the water beads up or
stands on the deck your deck may not
need sealing yet. However, you may want
to apply a new wood treatment.
When you are certain the deck needs
sealer, lightly sand rough spots with a pole
sander and 80-grit paper. Be sure to wear a
mask so you will not inhale the sawdust.
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Tools &
Materials for Deck Cleaner |
- Clear plastic
- 80-grit sandpaper
- Broom
- Deck cleaner (purchase at
any home center or Paint store)
- Hose
- Garden sprayer, or
stiff-bristled push broom
- Safety mask and goggles
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Applying Deck
Cleaner |
UV rays penetrate 1/64" of wood,
which causes graying. Apply a brightener
and cleaner to restore the wood's
natural beauty.
Deck cleaners help remove dirt, nail
stains, algae, and mildew. If your deck
is not brand new, always use a cleaner
before applying finish.
Cleaners are available in premixed
liquid concentrates. Carefully read the
manufacturer's directions before using
the material, and follow all safety
precautions and warnings on the label.
Use the water test to make sure the wood
can absorb the cleaner. Wear safety
goggles, a long-sleeved shirt and pants.
Do not wear sandals or open-toed shoes.
- Remove all deck furniture.
- Sand splintered areas with
80-grit paper. Repair damaged
boards.
- Sweep off loose debris and clean
between the cracks of the boards.
- Wet surrounding plants and
shrubs. Cover them with clear
plastic.
- For concentrated cleaners,
follow the manufacturer’s mixing
directions.
- Some cleaners require the
surface to be damp before applying,
while others require the surface to
be dry. Consult the product label.
- Use a stiff bristled brush with
an extension handle, a garden
sprayer, or a stiff-bristled push
broom to apply cleaner to the entire
deck. Don’t allow cleaner to puddle
in any area.
- Speed up the process by having one
person apply the cleaner and another
person scrub the deck. Be sure to spread
any puddles.
- Keep the deck wet with cleaner. Do
not allow cleaner to dry.
- Scrub tough areas with a stiff
brush or broom. Avoid using wire
brushes. The bristles can break off
into the wood and cause rust spots.
- Allow the cleaner to soak into the
wood. Soaking time is usually no more
than ten minutes, but check the product
instructions.
- Rinse the deck thoroughly with a
hose.
- Wash equipment with soapy water.
Rinse plastic with water and remove.
- Allow deck to dry
at least two days before applying a
sealer.
- Rinse the plastic covering the
plants with a hose and remove it.
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Choosing a
Stain or Sealer for Your Deck |
Make sure to choose a deck stain or
sealer that will repel water, resist
mildew, and prevent fading in high
traffic areas. Sealers and stains are
either water-based or oil based.
Oil-based finishes tend to hold their
color a bit longer, but water-based
finishes tend to be more durable and
last longer. There are four major
categories of sealants and stains,
listed in order below. Each contains
increasing amounts of pigment. The more
pigment you apply, the less wood grain
and texture is visible, but the better
protection you are providing for your
wood.
- Clear water repellent
often provides basic protection,
including waterproofing, minimal UV
protection, and sometime mildew
growth prevention. Because these are
clear or natural-look finishes,
there is minimal amount of UV
protection and the underlying wood
will begin to gray within a few
months. Performance ranges from 6
months to up to 1 years.
- Toner or Tinted water repellant very similar to a
clear sealant, except additional
pigment or color is added. This
provides additional protection
against sun damage, further delaying
the graying of the wood. In
addition, the additional color can
help to restore the original look of
the wood even if a small amount of
fading has occurred.
- Semi-transparent stains
contain additional pigment,
providing subtle color while still
showing the grain and texture of
wood. These provide additional
protection against water and sun
damage, usually lasting for three or
four years.
When choosing a stain, remember that
the finished color varies based on
the wood itself. If you are applying
a new stain over an old one, choose
a color that is similar to or darker
than the original. To allow the new
coating to penetrate into the wood,
the old coating should be adequately
worn or thoroughly stripped. Try a
small test-patch of the stain in an
inconspicuous area to ensure the
proper color and appearance.
Redwood and cedar contain naturally
occurring pigments called tannins
that may bleed to the surface. On
these woods, either use a
dark-colored stain that helps to
hide the tannin or use a wood
cleaner that is specifically
formulated to remove tannin stains.
To maintain a fresh look, recoating
may be done every two to three
years.
- Solid stain provides the
most amount of pigment or color, and
therefore the best protection for
wood. However, it also hides the
wood grain, only allowing some of
the texture of wood to show through.
Because of the excellent hiding
properties, solid color stain is
often used for heavily weathered
wood, covering up damaged wood
fibers. There are often more color
choices with this category, so an
attractive alternative would be to
select complimentary colors for the
horizontal boards or railings and
the vertical balusters or spindles.
Performance is often 5 years or
more, depending on the level of
direct exposure to sun and weather,
and the amount of foot traffic
encountered.
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Tools &
Materials for Sealer or Stain |
- 80-grit sandpaper
- Clear plastic
- Pole sander or palm
sander (optional)
- Sealer/stain
- Paint roller with
extension handle or sprayer
- Paintbrush
- Rags for clean up
- Safety mask and goggles
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Applying a
Sealer or Stain |
When applying a sealer or stain,
always read the manufacturers
directions. Drying times differ based on
air temperature and humidity. Before you
start, check the boards for needed
repairs such as split boards or
popped-up nails.
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Wear rubber gloves,
close-toed shoes, a
long-sleeved shirt and pants
when applying finish or
cleaner to minimize the
chance of skin irritation.
Also, wear safety glasses to
protect your eyes from back
spray.
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Tip: Do not apply deck product
in direct sun. The finish will dry too
quickly and will not absorb into the
wood.
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Check the weather. Try to find
at least two days of dry weather
with temperatures between 50°F and
90°F.
- Remove all deck furniture and
plants.
- Sand all grade stamps, marks,
and splintered areas. The entire
deck may require sanding with a pole
sander or palm sander to speed up
the process. Sand in the direction
of the grain. Be sure to wear a
safety mask so you will not inhale
the sawdust.
- Sweep off loose debris and clean
between the cracks. Make sure the
deck is dry.
- Cover plants and shrubs with clear
plastic.
- Stir the sealer or stain
thoroughly. Do not shake sealer.
Bubbles will form in the finish.
- Apply a thin, even coat of sealer or
stain over a two- to three-board section
with a paint roller with an extension
handle or a sprayer. Two thin coats are
better than one thick coat that does not
properly adhere or dry. If your deck has
railing, start with the outside railing,
work your way to the inside of the rails
and the deck flooring last.
Do not allow the finish to puddle. To
speed up the process, one person can
apply the stain or sealer and another
person can use a roller or broom to
spread puddles and to work the finish
into the wood, a process known as backrolling.
- Repeat the above process for the
entire deck. Use a paintbrush to
apply the sealer/stain in corners
and other difficult areas, such as
steps, railings, end grain and
cracks. A second coat is optional.
- Allow the deck to dry
completely.
- Before disposing of rags, spread
them out to dry completely. Heat
generated from evaporating finish on
a pile of rags can start a flash
fire. If you are using latex stain,
clean equipment with soapy water. If
you are using oil-based sealers,
clean with paint thinner or mineral
spirits.
- Rinse the plastic covering the
plants with a hose and remove it.
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Regular
Maintenance |
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Use the water test to check your deck
every few months to ensure the sealer is
repelling water. Regularly sweep off
debris.
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Applying
New-Wood Treatment |
A new-wood treatment starts your
just-built deck off with a firm
foundation for long-lasting beauty. Sun
and rain cause unprotected decks to
fade, crack, split, and warp. New-wood
treatment can be applied immediately to
slow the weathering process. Use the
tools list for Applying Deck Cleaner.
- Sand all grade stamps, marks, and
splintered areas with 80-grit paper. Be
sure to wear a safety mask so you will
not inhale the sawdust.
- Sweep off loose debris and clean
between the cracks.
- Cover plants and shrubs with
clear plastic.
- Stir the wood treatment
thoroughly. Apply an even coat over
the entire surface of the deck,
including the end grain and cracks,
with a roller, sprayer or a
stiff-bristled push broom. If you
are using a sprayer, backroll the
deck with a roller.
- Clean your equipment. Rinse the
plastic covering the plants with a hose
and remove it.
- Allow the deck to dry completely,
and allow it to weather for at least 6
months before applying any stain or
sealer.
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